Leaving the Korean War Zone, H.M.S. Concord made for Japan. Sailing up the inland sea to the Northern Island of Honshu and the Naval Base of H.M.S. Commonwealth in the Port of Kure. Here repairs were carried out and the ship was refuelled. If the ship had been operating with the Americans they would have gone instead to Sasebo, the American Naval Base in the Southern Island of Kyushu. Once repairs and refuelling were completed the ship continued Southward through the Straights of Formosa (now Taiwan) to Hong Kong. Sailing between the islands into Victoria Harbour past the whitewashed wall re-whitened each week by prisoners from Stanley Prison on the other side of the island, one of the prisons made notorious by the Japanese during the Second World War.
As soon as the ship was moored to a buoy refurbishing commenced; oil, ammunition, then food. That had been the rule throughout the British Fleet ever since Pearl Harbour. Until this was completed no leave was given. Once refurbishing was finished the side party were allowed on board. These were women who lived on a sampan, usually five of them, who, in exchange for left overs from the galley and mess decks – which they would later sell – would paint the ship’s side and other parts of the vessel which needed painting. They would also do any sewing which was required. From this work they made a good living which also enabled them to pay for the education of the little girls they had bought as unwanted babies. These children were well cared for and later supplemented the sampan’s work force. The same sampan serviced the ship each time she visited Hong Kong. The eldest woman, Funiglo, had bound feet – a legacy from old China. At holiday times the women would bring the children aboard where they were thoroughly fussed and spoiled by the ratings.
Under normal circumstances three quarters of the ship’s company would be allowed shore leave at one time. Some being allowed to stay ashore all night, some having to return to the ship. Once ashore, The China Fleet Club, The Flying Angel, The Shecko Club, were just a few of the many popular first stops because they were renowned for their excellent food and beer. Desire for decent food satisfied it was ‘all systems go’. The Willow Plate, The Star, Jingles, or any of the thousands of other pubs and bars which lined the side streets along Nathan Road on the Kowloon side of The New Territories drew them like magnets. Continuing up Nathan Road past the Army Barracks then turning left they would find themselves in the Typhoon Barrier where the junks took refuge from approaching typhoons. This area was a warren of brothels and opium dens. There were no signs above the doorways of the opium dens. They were unnecessary as the sickly smell of opium drifted out into the street.
1.
In December 1951 two young sailors were wandering around this part of Hong Kong on their first night ashore. Alan Stewart and his friend Alan Greenwood peered through one of the dim doorways. The interior was gloomy and ill-lit. The walls were lined with two tiered bunks. In the centre of the room was an oblong table on the top of which a hibachi charcoal fire glowed in a terra cotta bowl. A woman approached the table holding a ball of opium in one hand and a piece of wire in the other. She pinched a tiny piece from the dark brown waxy substance and stuck it on the end of the thin wire. Warming it over the fire until it swelled a little and looked sticky she placed it in the bowl of a small metal pipe and carried it over to one of the occupants of the bunks. The cloying sickly stench was overpowering and the intruding sailors were not sorry to be chased out of the room. They continued down the street, curiosity satisfied. The two Alans, on New Year’s Eve 1951, gatecrashed a dance being held at the Peninsular Hotel – a large exclusive building where sailors might be grudgingly tolerated in the downstairs bar but were unlikely to be welcomed in the restaurant or ballroom. Or indeed be able to afford the exorbitant prices. A dark haired woman seated with several other people at a large round table noticed the two sailors and sent to enquire who they were and invite them to join her party. Betty Church was well known in the Colony. She owned an Advertising and Publicity Bureau and was an overseas correspondent for The Daily Mail. She had managed to leave Hong Kong just before the Japanese overran the island, escaping via Singapore to South Africa where she enlisted in the South African Wrens – known as SWANS. Her husband, a captain in the Royal Navy, was not so fortunate. He was captured and interned for the duration of the war in Stanley Prison. Shortly after his release he died, his health undermined by the privations endured whilst in captivity. His wife returned to Hong Kong and resumed her former business activities.
Ensuring that the two young men enjoyed their unofficial night out she enjoined them to visit her house on Oliver’s Mount, the next rise to The Peak, on the following day. Houses with large gardens studded the slopes of The Peak. Only the very wealthy could afford to live in that area. One Chinese millionaire who had started his working life as a rickshaw boy had a silver plated rickshaw standing in his garden to remind him of his humble origins. Mrs Church’s house was not large. Built in the hacienda style it was not ostentatious but very well appointed and tastefully decorated. It was well guarded by Rufus, a German shepherd dog. The house was near the Chinese cemetery and the resonant sound of gongs was frequently heard as funeral processions wound their solemn way up The Mount to the large plot with its imposing tombstones.
2.
Meeting Mrs Church was a ‘sneck lifter’ for the two sailors. she introduced them to people and places they would normally never have encountered. She had an interest in an old hotel in Macao adjoining the Governor’s Residence and arranged for them, with another friend, ‘Bugs’ Needs, to spend two or three days there. The island of Macao was then an old fashioned type of place. No modern buildings. the overall impression formed by the three friends was that of a gambler’s haunt. Earlier in 1951 the two Alans had visited Happy Valley Racetrack. Alan Greenwood was lucky and won a considerable amount of money. They also visited a fortune teller, an old Chinese man who threw the ‘fortune sticks’ then interpreted what fate had in store for them. He only gave them a sketchy outline. Some things were uncannily correct, some vague. He did not tell what fate had in store for them in April 1952. Just before the ship left Hong Kong in January, as the gangway was about to be hauled aboard, a large car pulled up on the jetty. Mr Yip, Mrs Church’s chauffeur, climbed out. The two Alans were called to the gangway to receive a large wicker basket of fruit and vegetables. An embarkation gift which was much appreciated.
The ship sailed up to Japan, stayed for two days, then left for Korea. Manoeuvring around the islands, landing shore parties to set up radio stations, escorting aircraft carriers, sometimes British sometimes American or Canadian, or maybe sailing off the Northern Coast of the mainland bombarding railway lines, troop emplacements or Chinese and North Korean supply roads. The front in general. While escorting an American mine sweeper out of the harbour of Chongjin on the North Coast whilst under bombardment from the enemy the ship was hit by shell fire. One of the 78mm shells hit one of the gun turrets. The one on the stern known as Y Gun, injuring about twelve men and killing two. One of them was Alan Greenwood. The other was named Bravington. When that encounter ended the two dead sailors were buried the following morning, sewn up in canvas, and slid over the side from beneath a covering flag. The White Ensign with its red cross of St. George and the Union Flag in the top corner seemed poignantly apt as the men had been killed on April 23rd, St. George’s Day. Towards the end of 1952 the ship underwent a major refit in H.M.S. Dockyard, Singapore, then returned via Hong Kong to the war zone.
For the next few months they sailed between the islands shelling and being shelled. In June 1953 a typhoon hit the Korean Coast coinciding with the Coronation Celebrations. According to custom the mainbrace was spliced twice. Unfortunately a large number of the crew were unable to take advantage of this extra rum ration because they were laid low with seasickness. Those still on their feet made sure the rum was not wasted. After the Coronation the ship was heading for the Shimonoseki Straights, the entrance to the inland sea, when two men were washed overboard at the tail end of a typhoon. One man, Able Seaman Parnaby, was washed out of the ship’s waist on one wave and washed back onto the quarterdeck on the next. The other man was picked up by the ship’s pulling boat. Luckily, apart from multiple bruising and in one case, broken ribs, both men were unharmed Armistice was signed on 27th July 1953. The ship’s company stayed in the fleet Accommodation Block – H.M.S.Tamar – in Hong Kong awaiting transport home. They were scheduled to sail on the troop ship Asturias but stood down to allow prisoners released from North Korea to sail home first. They eventually sailed for Britain on the Motor ship Captain Hobson and disembarked at Liverpool.
3.
POSTCRIPT
Thirty years later Alan Stewart returned to Korea on a work assignment for the South Korean Chemical Corporation in Ullsan. The changes he found were staggering. Passing through Ullsan in 1952 he had seen a small tatty town with a river running through it. In 1983 the town had expanded beyond all recognition. Thriving shops and businesses and a huge shipyard- the largest modern ship building complex he had ever seen. The life style of the people had changed dramatically. Chubby children warmly dressed played in the snow. On his previous visit such children had been dressed in rags and looked undernourished. When the people he met discovered that he had fought during the Korean War they overwhelmed him with their hospitality. Taking him to many places of interest and entertainment and showing in various ways their gratitude for the aid given by The Royal Navy during their darkest days. Alan’s sojourn in Korea in 1983 was vastly different to the time he had spent there in 1950-53.
H.M.S. CONCORD Korea 1953
PEACE WITH HONOUR
1 1646 Vessel
2 1649 Prize taken from the Dutch and sold 1659 3 1783 Prize, 5th rate 7 1916 Cruiser of 3,750 tons built by Armstrongs Sold to metal Industries of Rosyth in 1935 for breaking up
10 1945 Destroyer of 2,106/2,749 tons, ex-Corso, built by Thornycroft. Broken up at Inverkeithing 1962
4.
POSTSCRIPT
In April 1995 I travelled with Alan and a group of Korean Veterans to South Korea. We were under the auspices of Major Anthony Farrar-Hockley D.S.O., M.C. of the Gloucestershire Regiment.
After a long journey from Gatwick to Seoul on a British Airways plane which was on its inaugural non-stop flight, we arrived in Seoul and were transported to the Five-star Sofitel Hotel in the City centre. There we joined other groups of ex-combatants from Canada, Australia and New Zealand. The majority of the Veterans were ex-army personnel. Just a few Royal Navy.
All our accommodation was provided free, courtesy of the South Korean Government in gratitude for the help and sacrifice made by our respective countries.
We visited many sites of historical interest including the War Memorial Museum, a large imposing building funded by the United States of America.
The Korean Veterans were amazed at the prosperity and modernity they saw. When they were there the whole country had been ravaged. Buildings burnt and countryside denuded of forestry. Starving refugees had been fleeing for their lives. Now the economy was thriving. One day each year is set aside for tree planting. This is known as Arbor Day.
U.S. personnel escorted us to many battle zones and memorial sites. Military from the Commonwealth Countries entertained us in large marquees.
At Castle Hill, where the ‘Glosters ‘got the hammer’, Major Farrar-Hockley recounted the events of the battle.
Many were killed and many captured by the Chinese Major Farrar-Hockley – then a captain – was captured but managed to escape. Inevitably, he was recaptured, escaped again and then recaptured. He wrote a fascinating book about these events which is well worth a read.♦♦
The U.S.Army personnel escorted us to the demilitarized zone (D.M.Z.) at Panmunjom and explained the strange system of communication which occurred there. A barren, scary place.
At a reception in the Sofitel Hotel, Each Veteran was presented with a bound certificate by Tae-Wan Chang, the President of the Korean Veterans Association.
♦♦The Edge of the Sword
Anthony Farrar-Hockley
Published in 1955
Hello there… It is interesting that you would mention Betty Church. She was a good friend of my father. In fact he purchased ABP from her in the mid 1960s after he semi retired from Rothmans.
Thanks for this
Cheers
Timothy O’Neil-Dunne
timothyo@t2impact.com
A wonderful record of long ago when we were all so young. Thank you.
This of great interest to me, as I was a messmate of Alan Stewart on HMS Concord during the whole of this time. It brings back memories long forgotten. The burial at sea of Able Seaman Alan Greenwood and Able Seaman Bravington was a very moving experience for the whole ships company. We left the coast of Korea which we had been shelling the previous day, and steamed out to sea for a few moments of peace and quiet for the burial. The chart co-ordinates of the ships position would have been recorded in the bridge log as a record of that day.
David Miles
Hello,
I found this an interesting read. I’ve been looking for information on H.M.S Concord for a long time regarding my grandfather, John Evans. I know little of his time served as I never got to meet him but I’ve always looked on with intrigue. If anybody has any information I’d be very grateful
Kind regards
Ali
Hi Ali
Thank you for the comment. I have sent you an email.
Barbara
Hi there,
This is a fantastic website and a very interesting read!
Particularly as Alan Greenwood is my Great Uncle.
Any further information or stories about HMS Concord or Alan Greenwood would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you
Liam
Hi Liam
Such a lovely surprise to hear from you. Alan often wondered where Alan’s relatives might live.
Unfortunately, Alan died in 2003. They were the best of friends and Alan never forgot him. He always placed a poppy at the memorial on Remembrance Day for him.
Barbara
Hi Barbara
Thank you for such a quick reply.
I stumbled upon this website whilst doing a project on local history whilst at University and I couldn’t believe it when I ended up reading about my Great Uncle, such a coincidence!
Thanks for the additional information, I will pass it on to my Granddad who is very appreciative of this page mentioning his brother.
This website is fantastic for anyone interested in local history and should be advertised on front page of the Ponte and Cas Express!
Liam
Hello Barbara
This is an old messmate of your dear Alan on HMS Concord catching up on your latest entry. I am still in contact with Frank Lees in Kendal – another of our messmates, and was able to meet uplast June in Sedberg for a very long chat. We compared notes and photos of those days long ago on our old ship. Up and down the east and west coasts of Korea. ‘Darken Ship’ every night making moving along the upper deck a problem – never knew who you would run into, plus X gun firing off star shells every few minutes. Highlights were a fresh ship joining the task force bringing out sacks of mail from back home so far
This may jog a few memories.
Regards David Miles
Hi Barbara, I came across your post on Shore-leave 1951 while researching for my travel memoir, The Hong Kong Letters, which was published this month. I worked in Hong Kong in the 1960s for Betty Church in her advertising agency. I have forwarded the link to her great-granddaughter. Thank you so much for posting. I found her a complex and difficult lady, and that little insight served to round out her character and remind me once again that she was also of course generous and fun to be with. Thank you. Gill Shaddick